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Complete Guide to Hardwood and Engineered Wood Flooring
Solid Hardwood vs Engineered Wood
The choice between solid hardwood and engineered wood is one of the most important decisions in a wood flooring project. Both have distinct advantages, and understanding the differences helps you make the right choice for your UK home.
Solid hardwood is milled from a single piece of timber, typically 18–22mm thick. The entire board is real wood, which means it can be sanded and refinished multiple times over its lifetime — potentially lasting 50–100 years. Solid hardwood is beautiful and has an authentic feel, but it is more susceptible to expansion and contraction caused by humidity changes. In UK homes, where humidity varies significantly between summer and winter, this can cause seasonal gaps between boards. Solid wood must be acclimatised for 7–14 days before fitting and should never be installed directly over concrete subfloors or with underfloor heating.
Engineered wood consists of a thin layer of real hardwood (the “wear layer”, typically 2–6mm thick) bonded to a base of plywood or HDF. The layered construction makes engineered wood far more dimensionally stable than solid wood, meaning it expands and contracts much less with humidity changes. This makes it suitable for underfloor heating, concrete subfloors, and areas with fluctuating humidity like kitchens. Engineered wood can still be sanded and refinished, though fewer times than solid wood (2–4 times for a 4mm+ wear layer). It is available in all the same species, board widths, and patterns as solid wood.
Laying Patterns and Wastage
The laying pattern has a significant impact on both the visual effect and the amount of material needed. More complex patterns require more cuts and produce more wastage:
- Straight / Running Bond: Boards laid in parallel rows with staggered end joints. The simplest pattern with the least wastage (10%). The most economical choice and still looks excellent with wide, long planks.
- Brick Bond: Similar to running bond but with joints offset by exactly one-third or one-half of the board length. Slightly more wastage than random stagger but creates a more uniform pattern. Allow 10% wastage.
- Herringbone: Boards cut to identical lengths (typically 400–600mm) and laid in a zigzag pattern. Creates a classic, timeless look that is extremely popular in UK period properties and modern homes alike. Allow 15% wastage due to the angled cuts at borders.
- Chevron: Similar to herringbone but boards are cut at a 45-degree angle at each end so they form a continuous V-shape. More contemporary than herringbone. Allow 18–20% wastage because every board end is angle-cut.
- Diagonal: Standard boards laid at 45 degrees to the walls. Creates an interesting visual effect in square rooms. Allow 15% wastage.
Acclimatisation — Critical for UK Installations
Acclimatisation is the process of allowing the wood flooring to adjust to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room where it will be installed. This step is absolutely essential and should never be skipped. The UK’s maritime climate means indoor humidity levels can vary from 30–40% in winter (when central heating is running) to 60–70% in summer.
Solid hardwood must acclimatise for 7–14 days. Open all packs and spread the boards around the room, stacking them with spacers between layers to allow air to circulate on all sides. The room should be at its normal living temperature (18–22°C) during this period.
Engineered wood requires 48–72 hours of acclimatisation due to its more stable layered construction. Still open the packs and spread boards around the room.
Subfloor Preparation
A properly prepared subfloor is essential for a long-lasting wood floor installation. In UK homes, subfloors are either concrete (ground floor) or timber (upper floors and many ground floors in older properties):
- Concrete subfloors: Must be fully cured (at least 6 weeks for new concrete), flat to within 3mm over a 1-metre span, and dry (moisture content below 75% RH or 0.5% MC). Use a moisture meter to check. If moisture is high, apply a DPM (damp-proof membrane) before installing underlay. Engineered wood can be glued or floated over concrete. Solid wood should not be installed directly over concrete — use a plywood overlay system instead.
- Timber subfloors: Must be structurally sound with no loose or rotten boards. Sand down any high spots and fill low areas with levelling compound. Screw down any squeaky boards. Both solid and engineered wood can be installed over timber subfloors using floating, glued, or nailed-down methods.
UK Humidity and Seasonal Movement
Even with proper acclimatisation, wood flooring will move slightly throughout the year in response to the UK climate. In winter, when central heating dries the indoor air, boards contract and small gaps may appear. In summer, higher humidity causes boards to expand. This is completely normal and expected. To minimise seasonal movement, maintain indoor humidity between 45–65% year-round using a humidifier in winter and ventilation in summer. Wider boards show gaps more noticeably than narrower boards, so in draughty UK homes, consider boards under 150mm wide.
UK Hardwood Flooring Costs (2026)
| Flooring Type | Material/m² | Fitting/m² | Total/m² |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engineered oak (straight) | £22–£45 | £12–£20 | £34–£65 |
| Engineered oak (herringbone) | £30–£55 | £20–£30 | £50–£85 |
| Solid oak (straight) | £35–£70 | £18–£30 | £53–£100 |
| Solid walnut | £50–£90 | £20–£35 | £70–£125 |
| Reclaimed wood | £40–£120 | £25–£40 | £65–£160 |
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Frequently Asked Questions
Solid wood is milled from a single piece of timber (18–22mm thick) and can be sanded many times but is sensitive to humidity. Engineered wood has a real wood top layer (2–6mm) bonded to a plywood base, making it more stable, compatible with underfloor heating, and suitable for concrete subfloors.
Solid hardwood needs 7–14 days in the room at normal living temperature. Engineered wood needs 48–72 hours. Open all packs and spread boards around the room to allow air circulation on all sides.
Herringbone needs 15% wastage; chevron needs 18–20%. These patterns involve more angle cuts at the borders than straight-lay (10%). First-time DIY installers should add an extra 5%.
Solid hardwood is not recommended over underfloor heating. Use engineered wood instead, as its layered construction provides dimensional stability. The floor surface temperature must never exceed 27°C.
Engineered oak costs £22–55/m² for materials. Solid oak costs £35–70/m². Premium species like walnut cost £50–90/m². Professional fitting adds £12–35/m² depending on pattern. Budget £50–120/m² for a fully fitted wood floor.